染・織・繍

【染】Dyeing

友禅染　Yuzen Dyeing

多様な色彩でもって絵画的に描かれる、防染による日本独自の文様染め。

写真は、次工程の友禅染の染料が染み出ないように、「筒金」を用いて「糊」で防染の土手を生地の上に作る工程。「京友禅」のまさに肝であり、職人の腕が真に問われる。
Yuzen-dyeing is a technique that involves a paste-resist method to create unique picturesque designs with various colors. This is the process where design barriers are made with nori rice paste and tsutsugane metal nozzles, in order to prevent the colors in adjoining areas of the design from mixing in the next process. This process is the essence of kyo-yuzen, and true talent and skill of an artisan is required.

京鹿の子紋　Kyo-kanoko-Tie-dyeing

千数百年前より宮廷衣装の紋様表現にも用いられてきた染色技法。

写真は「帽子紋」で、柄に沿って運針し防染のためにビニールをかぶせ、そのまま染料につけることでビニールの中と外を染め分ける。古くからの研鑽ゆえ、その手法は多岐に渡る。
Kyo-kanoko tie-dyeing is a technique that has been used in court costumes from some 1100 years ago. Boshi tie-dyeing handles the needle along the pattern and covers it with plastic film. After it is dip dyed, we can see the difference in color created by this process. As a technique with a long history of use, Kyo-kanoko tie-dyeing varies in method.

摺型友禅　Surigata Yuzen Dyeing

ひと型に一色ずつ、数十枚におよぶ型紙を使って染め分ける染色技法。

写真は、生地に柄を小刷毛などで刷り込んだ後、その柄の部分をまるごと覆う「伏せ型」という型を用いて糊で伏せる工程。全体を調子づける地色は、この工程の後に引き染で一気に染める。
Surigata Yuzen dyeing is a technique to dye different patterns using dozens of stencils. This is a process where after stenciling a pattern on the fabric using a small paintbrush, it is covered with glue and fuse-gata, a stencil which covers the whole print. The base color will be brush dyed after this process.

【繍】Sewing

京繍　Kyo-nui Embroidery

京鹿の子紋、摺り箔と同様に、古くから受け継がれる装飾の技法の一つ。

写真の留袖は、疋田滝取り吉祥という柄。一見、一色に見える図柄も、微妙に違う色を組み合わせて深みを与える。ひと針ひと針が、平面に描かれた模様に立体感とボリュームを与える緻密な手仕事。
Kyo-nui embroidery is a traditional decorative technique similar to kyo-kanoko tie-dying and surihaku (foiling). The pattern on this tomesode (formal kimono) is Hitta Taki-tori Kissho, representing happiness and luck. Although the pattern may seem to be designed in a single color, there are subtle changes in tone and shade. It is this delicate handwork that adds dimension and volume to a pattern drawn on a flat surface.

【織】Weaving

西陣織　Nishijin Brocade

宮廷文化とともに発展してきた京都西陣で受け継がれる精緻な文様織。

写真は「水衣」とも呼ばれ、能楽の天女の羽衣に使われる軽量で透明感のある袋帯。黄楊の櫛で横糸を不規則に寄せる「櫛織」と呼ばれる技法で、職人の腕が風合いを決める高度な織物。
Nishijin brocade is a delicate textile that has developed along with the Imperial court and aristocracy in Nishijin, Kyoto. This light and translucent fabric is fukuro obi (kimono sash), used as a robe of feathers
in Noh plays, also referred to as Minagoromo (a fluid-like fabric). It is woven in kushi-ori (comb weaving),
a technique to bring the weft together in an irregular form with a comb made out of Japanese boxwood.
A very skillful artisan is required to weave this complex textile.

仕立て　Shitate Tailoring

針を横に寝かせて生地を寄せる「ぐしぐけ」と呼ばれる独自の運針を基本にきものを縫い合わせる。

きものは特に仕立て直しを前提とするので、縫い目の丁寧さはもちろんのこと、解きやすさも求められる。絹糸の微妙な質感を感じつつ、仕上がり後のことも求められる、繊細な手仕事である。
A kimono is basically sewn by holding the needle horizontally and moving the fabric towards the needle. This unique method is called gushiguke.Since kimono are meant to be re-sewn together after washing, artisans aim for high precision in making kimono but also so that the fabric can be separated easily. While kimono are valued for their delicate use of silk thread, thought must be placed to how they are used after they are completed.

襦袢・裏物　Juban / Uramono Undergarments

きものアルチザン京都は職人の腕が問われる「染」「織」「繍」「仕立て」はもとより、「襦袢・裏物」に至るまで、きもののある暮らしに必要な一式を取り揃えます。

At Kimono Artisan Kyoto, our products feature not only traditional skills such as“dyeing”,“sewing”,“weaving”and“tailoring”, but we also provide you with items such as juban / uramono undergarments to complete your kimono experience.